Are you frustrated with a fire that won’t stay lit? Or maybe you’re burning through expensive logs faster that you can stack them? The secret to solving these problems isn’t just the wood you use – it’s how you use your stove’s air vents.
Stop wasting wood and fill your room with warmth. Our step-by-step guide explains your stove’s air vents in simple terms, helping you get a more efficient, cleaner, and hotter fire every time.
Those little levers and dials are the key to unlocking your stove’s full potential. In this guide, we’re going to demystify them completely. We’ll turn you from a fire-fumbling beginner into a fire-master, able to control your heat, save money on fuel, and keep that stove glass sparkling clean. Let’s get started!
For those who want answers now, here’s the quick and simple cheat sheet.


Think of your air vents like the accelerator in a car. More air is like pressing the gas – you get more power (heat), but you use more fuel. Less air is like easing off the pedal, giving you a slower, more efficient cruise.
Your stove uses different types of air, controlled by these vents, to manage the fire.
Ready to light the perfect fire? Follow these simple steps.

Before you even strike a match, open every controllable vent fully. You want to invite as much oxygen to the party as possible. If you don’t have a good 1-inch layer of ash in the bottom, leave some from your last fire. Wood loves to burn on a bed of ash!
Light your kindling and once it’s caught, you can close the door. With the vents wide open, the Primary Air will fuel the fire from below, helping it spread to your logs quickly and establish a hot core.
Once your main logs are burning well (not just the kindling!), it’s time to take control. This is the most important step.
Now, adjust the Secondary Air vent. You’re not looking for a raging inferno (that’s just sending heat up the chimney!) or a smouldering, smoky pile. Gently close the top vent until you see lazy, dancing flames. This is your stove running at peak efficiency – maximum heat for minimum fuel. Now, sit back and enjoy the glow!
Read the Full Guide Here: Step-by-Step: Building and Lighting a Fire in Your Wood-Burner
You’re closing the secondary (top) vent too soon or too much, or your wood is wet. Open the top vent wider to strengthen the airwash system. Always use properly dry wood with a moisture content below 20%.
You’re likely closing the vents too early before the fire is properly established, starving it of oxygen. Be patient and wait until the logs are fully charred and burning before you start closing the primary vent.
Before opening the door to refuel, always open the secondary (top) vent fully for about 10-15 seconds. This increases the chimney draw, pulling the smoke upwards instead of spilling out into your room.
A: Open all vents to start the fire. Once it’s established, close the primary (bottom) vent and use the secondary (top) vent to control the burn.
A: The secondary (top) vent is your main control for heat output and flame size when burning wood. More open equals more heat and faster burn; more closed equals less heat and a slower burn.
A: The airwash system is just another name for the secondary air supply. It’s designed to direct a ‘sheet’ of air down the inside of the glass, which acts as a barrier to prevent smoke and soot from sticking to it.
A: Look for active, bright, and gently rolling flames. A slow, smouldering fire is inefficient and polluting, while a wild, roaring inferno is wasting fuel up the chimney. Clear glass is also a great sign of an efficient burn.
A: You can, but you shouldn’t. Leaving the vents fully open will cause the fire to burn incredibly hot and fast. This is inefficient, wastes a huge amount of fuel, and can even damage the internal components of your stove or chimney flue over time.
A: Many modern Ecodesign stoves have a single, simplified control. Moving the lever to one side will typically open all necessary vents for startup. As you slide it to the other side, it will intelligently close the primary air and then gradually reduce the secondary air. Check your stove’s manual, but generally, ‘left’ is for startup and ‘right’ is for slow burn.
A: Absolutely. Wet wood (moisture content >20%) creates a huge amount of steam and smoke. It struggles to burn hot enough for the secondary combustion to work, meaning you’ll get very little heat, a lot of tar in your chimney, and black glass, no matter how you set your vents. Always use kiln-dried or properly seasoned wood.
A: To extinguish the fire, simply close all air vents completely. This will starve the fire of oxygen, and it will slowly and safely go out.
Mastering your log burner vents is more of an art than a science, and every stove has its own personality. Don’t be afraid to tweak the controls and observe how the flames respond. With a bit of practice following these steps, you’ll quickly learn what your stove likes and be able to create the perfect fire on demand.
Feeling like your old stove just isn’t cutting it? Explore our range of modern, high-efficiency Ecodesign stoves that make controlling your fire easier than ever.
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